Following on from my recent Long Range article I was approached by two newbie  hunters that wanted to learn how to reload and go beyond the available standard factory ammunition.  James …. and  ……. ……  were keen to understand and utilise  a little  hands on experience  to put meaning to  all the information available in most reloading manuals.  Nick Harvey’s locally developed reloading book is an excellent guide and full of important information, but without some form of basic hands on instruction you may still flounder. Reloading is not a mystery for elite hunters, but rather an enjoyable past time to bring out the best in your rifle. The biggest issue the reloader faces is that some components  listed are not readily available in Australia. Its’ not rocket science and anyone can reload ammunition safely in the comfort of their own home.  Reloading adds another dimension to your shooting and enables you to find what combination with some tweaking makes your rifle perform to its full potential.   What started the editor Garry Rodgers and his crew thinking about reloading was the drastic improvement in accuracy shown in his Ruger 30/06 with a proven load I had developed for my Sako.   The rifle now shoots under 1 moa but was troublesome with some types of  factory ammo.   This article isn’t about creating bench rest  match wining ammunition but how to extract that extra bit of accuracy or help a troubled  rifle.   You need start at base level before ordering special competition seating dies as the Redding S series. Some skills and common sense are required but make no mistake an error can kill or severely injure you.  Reloading will open new horizons for you and challenge your ability.

I would recommend using the same basic type of components when developing a load and tweaking them. It is trap for the newbie to buy a little bit of this and that, and then keep changing parameters frequently for little or no gain.  For example,  if a given  load shoots extremely well in a factory sporter don’t go swapping primer brands, powder or projectile brands because you believe its better or your mate says try some of these.   This will set you back a fair bit and require a full work up regime again.  Do not change any component without first working up to that given load again.    If something works well for you buy more than the bare minimum of components. In my experience supply in Australia is erratic at times. If you are getting groups under 1 inch sometimes it just won’t get better in a sporting rifle but then again it just might!  You don’t have to have a ½ moa rifle to be successful but any advantage  helps. Generally the shooter must be up to and capable of harnessing  new found enthusiasm and  accuracy. Equipment may limit your results, for example a shot out barrel can’t possibly deliver great accuracy.

Buy buying in bulk you save and ensure consistency with known proven products.   We need to support those importers and gun shops that support us.  The shop that goes out on a limb to get you a special  powder for example needs your support.    Yes, our own ADI powder is excellent and I use lots of it, but sometimes in a certain calibre another powder may be superior. Don’t always believe published data and a run over the chronograph sorts it out very quickly.  In the Short Magnums I use  RE19 and 22 exclusively.  In the 30/06 it’s hard to go past ADI 2209 and  ADI 2231sc is a good .270 win powder. Reg Gordons old “Buck”  30/06  loves RE15,  so sometimes you need look outside the square.

 I will give you another  VDH mag exclusive scoop in  that Alliant have released a new specific powder namely RE 17 for the short magnums.   It will possibly give you an extra 100 to 140fps more velocity over RE19.  Hopefully our friends at Nioa the new Alliant distributor can send me a sample sooner than later! In any case Greenie at C&A Canavas knows I would like 5cans please.  As you see I use a bit of powder and  no doubt  RE 17 will be the No 1 Short Mag powder.   I can envisage that 180gn Barnes TTX pill travelling just below 3200fps in my rifle safely! I hope we see it soon on our shores   and it may end the win mag versus short mag argument.  That’s why I love this reloading caper as now we have the ability to exceed high pressure factory spec ammunition.    

The reloader needs to be safe and follow instructions carefully. Wear Safety glasses when reloading as you only have on pair of eyes.   It is critical when priming to wear safety glasses, work up and never start at the maximum is excellent advice.   We are handling explosive products never forget this.

Outdoor Sporting Agencies were kind enough to allow us to utilise a lovely office and reloading bench for the purpose of this article.  I can assure you Hornady ,  MTM  Savage , Norica and Leica products are now  exceptionally well represented in Australia.  No excuse now for a retailer not to be able to get Hornady projectiles or  loaded cartridges  for you in a matter of days! It was surprising to read on a forum that no 17hmr ammo was available at their local store and yet I saw two pallets full here.   But wait, they even have spare parts and it was assuring to see boxes of  air rifle springs and seals.   There wasn’t much in the way of loaded ammo, dies  or components they didn’t have in the warehouse.  I will also remind you need to go to your local gun shop to get any hunting related products otherwise you will get told to PO.     

When starting out I would recommend you buy a specific complete kit such as Hornady, RCBS or Lee for example.  These are well known high quality available brands that won’t let you down and get you started.   Kits  include a  press, scales, reloading manual and priming tool amongst other things.   Once you have a basic kit you can add special items to your growing inventory. This is the start and not the end depending how involved you want to become and how much volume you want to produce.  Digital powder scales, electric trimmers and case preparation centres are must haves once you get right into reloading.   I make no secret that I have a few Lee products in my garage and I love their neck collet die for advanced techniques.    The new dimension Hornady dies also have a superb match seating die as a standard .  

Having recently gone into longer range shooting I have started looking for higher  BC low drag bullets and  projectiles such  as Berger Bullets are not available  in factory loads.   Victoria Arms has a good supply of these J4 jacketed match quality hollow point projectiles. I really have no choice but to reload to develop some  ultimate long range loads.  For the  long range  boys you may want to view the  .30 cal 210gn Match VLD, BC or the 7mm  170gn VLD, BC .     These bullets are the ticket past 300 metres in my opinion.  Dedicated Long range hunters such as Simon Webster fully understand what a high BC is all about. When you run a specialist rilfe such as .338 Edge  you have no option but  to reload for maximum effect.  The Hornady Interlock/SST,  or Remington Cor Lokt  projectiles are some of the best economy bullets you can buy by the 100 count.    Woodleigh bullets are our local Aussie  home grown hero and perform well.    So many choices are available to the reloader and there is always a solution to match the bullet to the game you hunt. Factory ammo today is exceptionally good but the reloader can generally do better! In fact none of my hunting buddies shoot factory ammunition any more. They have seen the benefits of reloading first hand.

Stages of reloading in simple terms are:

1.    Resizing the cartridge case and removing spent primer.
2.    Insert a new primer (Without touching by bare oily  hands)
3.    Refill the case with powder  (Correct weight  and type.. measure twice)
4.    Seat a new projectile into the case mouth. (Ensure correct seating depth don’t guess.)

Having used different brands of reloading dies it is important to read the instructions properly and various brands will need to be set up differently in your press. One method of adjustment does not fit all types.  All cases need lubrication before reloading and don’t forget the case mouth.  The  case mouth should   be chamfered and all  primer pockets  cleaned before   priming.   A   hand priming tool is a brilliant addition and your fingers never touch the primer and in respect the press mounted variety is not as good.  Once  or twice fired cases will grow in length   and the most common mistake  a first time reloader is forgetting to trim  the resized cases to their specified length. All reloaders need a set of vernier calibres for measuring and the digital read out ones are brilliant.


How many reloads you get out of a case is dependant on a various variables such as how warm you load them. Arguably the best brass is made by Norma and their historical link with Roy Weatherby is legendary.  Its is costly but its ductility can be felt when resizing .  Nosler custom brass is another top shelf item and its no secret I use the cheaper type such as Hornady or Winchester too.   Any loose primer pockets or split necks and the case is immediately turfed.   Keep your brass consistent and don’t mix and match brands as they have different capacity and characteristics.  It is good practice to buy a bag of 50 new cases and start fresh.    Three or 4 reloads is all you may get from high intensity cartridges such as the 300wsm.    Don’t expect the brass to last for ever or else you may get a nasty  head separation.

Knowing where your rifle  barrel lands start is important and when seating a bullet you must seat it deep enough not to jam in the lands and  it must clear your magazine. Pressure will sore if you don’t trim brass or jam a bullet hard into the lands.   You can make up your own seating/measuring  case or buy a speciality  case and rod to measure this.   The Hornady OAL gauge  I tested to measure the lands and seating depth via a dummy case worked superbly.      

When seating bullets   you may want to utilise this tip :  commence to pull the handle down and as  the projectile enters the case , stop and rotate the case ½ a turn.  I do this instinctively now and it is a tip from the crew at Barnes bullets.    Thiseffort  possibly creates a more uniform seating process.  

Another valid point is I don’t relay on a powder thrower exclusively.  I throw then trickle up to the given charge.  A little thing such as this can really tighten a group. Point one of a grain isn’t close enough for me.  Consistency and making the best possible safe ammo should be your goal.     Read a reloading manual and follow the steps carefully and if any doubt don’t fire that ammo or just stop. Ask an  experienced person if in any doubt.    There are numerous Australian web sites such as AHN  you can view and post a question.  There are no stupid questions in reloading only stupid people who don’t ask!  “ NEVER START AT A LISTED MAXIUM LOAD”    Also never have more than the correct type of powder for the calibre on your reloading table.  I was advised a fellow at the Little River recently mixed or used the incorrect powder  whilst reloading at the back of his vehicle. As he fired his test load it ended with catastrophic results.    Never rush any procedure when reloading and avoid distractions.  




Good Hunting
Herb Lonsing